It’s done. It’s happened. All the preparation and excitement is over and we are back having experienced a challenging week, a week we won’t easily forget.
We start our trip on Thursday 15th January, catching our flight in the afternoon and making our way to Moshi. The flight lasts 4 hours and I keep myself occupied by reading and looking out the plane window at the clouds below.
Clouds, Dori Moreno
We check into our hotel and make our way straight to our rooms to sleep given the late hour of the evening. The tension and nerves has us all hoping for a good night rest. Unfortunately this is not to be the case for me as the local dog community hold a party in my honour and howl all night long.
Early the next morning, I join Warren and Sarah for breakfast. I point out the mountain to them. All 5 896m of it. They had not noticed it, tucked away between the foliage of the hotel gardens. To say that it fills us with awe and fear all at once is an understatement.
Kilimanjaro, Dori Moreno
Our guide, Rajab, arrives and we start our trip to the Lomosho Glades via the Londorossi Park Gates. En route we stop for supplies. We sit around and take photos whilst we wait for the grocery shopping to be done.
African colours, Dori Moreno
On arrival at the Park Gate, we sign in and are given a lunch pack to keep us occupied whilst everything is weighed in order to establish how many porters need to accompany us. There is a strict system whereby a porter is only allowed to carry up to 25kg in total.
A little while later, we are back in the 4×4 making our way towards the Lomosho Glades following a narrow trail through plantations of various types, including potato. At a certain point, the vehicle stops, we jump out and get ready to take our first steps of this 7 day adventure. The rain forest welcomes us.
Rain Forest, Dori Moreno
A couple of hours later we arrive at our first camp site, Mti Mkubwa (Big Tree), so called because of the enormous Yellowwood Tree taking place of pride. We settle down to dinner and our first nights sleep in our double tent. It takes some co-ordinating, unpacking and re-packing, but eventually all is quiet. Sometime during the night, nature calls and I unzip myself out of my sleeping bag and make my way outside. The skies are ablaze with stars and I feel the excitement build at the prospect of the days to come.
Campsite, Dori Moreno
The next day is a marathon day. It takes me 9 hours to get to our next camp, Shira 2 at 3 847m. I wake up full of energy and enthusiasm, and about an hour into the walk I find myself counting steps and breathing heavily. The terrain changes throughout the day from thick, green rain forest to heather and then moorland. The heather is similar to the Cape fynbos with many Protea bushes and lots of mist and fog. Throughout this long day, I am aware of the changes in the landscape and appreciative of the beauty of our surrounds.
Rainforest, Dori Moreno
Tall trees, Dori Moreno
Canopy of trees, Dori Moreno
Heather, Dori Moreno
Finally we, or should I say, I, stumble into camp. It’s cold and desolate, like a moonscape but directly in front of our tent lies Lady Kilimanjaro herself. Languishing in the late afternoon light, she lies resplendent in all her finery.
Moonscape, Dori Moreno
Day 4 and we start the day with a decent breakfast, miraculously supplied by our chef. He is a true magician conjuring up delicious meals to keep our energy levels up. The views are not too shabby either.
Breakfast, Dori Moreno
Shira II camp, Dori Moreno
The benefit of the route we have chosen, Lomosho, is that it is the only route in Kilimajaro where you walk through a series of valleys, resulting in frequent gain and loss of altitude. This is perfect for acclimatisation. And perfect for the solitude it provides too, given that not too many people choose this longer and more arduous route. We have the campsite to ourselves and the views go on forever.
Mountain flare, Dori Moreno
Skies, Dori Moreno
We leave the campsite motivated and ready for the day. The terrain here is known as Alpine Desert. At this altitude there is intense radiation, high evaporation and huge daily temperature fluctuations. These are not favorable conditions for plant life given the lack of water, yet life exists in the form of lichens, mosses and some everlasting flowers.
Alpine Desert, Dori Moreno
Alpine Desert, Dori Moreno
Alpine Desert, Dori Moreno
After a number of hours walking through this desolate terrain, we reach Lava Tower at 4 600m. This is the highest point for the day and from here we start our descent to our camp for the night, Barranco Camp at 3 950m.
Lava Tower, Dori Moreno
The rest of the day is a hectic downhill scramble to Barranco Camp. This is the camp where the routes converge and we start seeing an increase in human traffic. As we get closer to the campsite, it looks more and more like a carnival site with loads of tents of all shapes, colours and sizes set up. The ablutions are well used and mountain sickness (nausea) sets in when I have to use them.
Down to camp, Dori Moreno
Giant Lobelia, Dori Moreno
Barranco Campsite, Dori Moreno
The number of people around provides the opportunity to meet some of them and get to know their personal stories. There is a sense of camaraderie given that everyone here has the same final objective in mind.
Barranco Camp, Dori Moreno
Breakfast at Barranco, Dori Moreno
The next morning, we “eat” Barranco wall for breakfast. I hit my peak and love every minute of the challenging climb up this almost vertical wall. The views from up here down to the valley of our campsite below are breathtaking. Many waterfalls make their debut and we are not bored for even a second with so much to look at and admire.
Barranco Wall, Dori Moreno
Rajab has made sure we leave the campsite last. This means that we have the mountain to ourselves. We have missed the traffic jams up the wall and once on top, we are able to enjoy the solitude, the views, the changes in temperature as the mist swirls and rolls in around us. Its just us and the mountain.
On the mountain, Dori Moreno
Swirling Mist, Dori Moreno
Towards Karanga Camp., Dori Moreno
We arrive at the campsite in the afternoon. As I sit outside our tent at 6.30pm, the sky is clear, some clouds scattered here and there. There are sounds of chatting and cooking going on keeping my mind occupied. It’s days since any of us have washed ourselves or our hair. Our hands and fingernails are filthy, yet here, none of that matters. It’s all about getting through each day, each moment and making the most of it.
Karanga Camp, Dori Moreno
We go for a 100m climb for further acclimatisation. There is little else to do on the mountain and the focus is all about the summit and preparing for it. We are at 3 963m now. The air is thin and breathing is difficult. At night, lying in our sleeping bags, we feel shortness of breath and struggle with claustrophobia.
Training walk, Dori Moreno
Later that evening the sun sets the mountains on fire as it dips and turns day into night.
Sunset, Dori Moreno
Tuesday, 20th January, the skies are cobalt blue. Kilimanjaro lies waiting. Its a beautiful day as we set out to our last camp at 4 600m – Barafu.
Cobalt skies, Dori Moreno
To Barafu, Dori Moreno
To Barafu, Dori Moreno
We arrive at Barafu camp 3 hours after setting out. Its a quick ascent of just over 600m in a short time and by the time we reach the campsite, both Warren and I have pounding headaches. The remedy is to drink lots of water to try ease the pressure build up on the brain. We settle down for a long afternoon and occupy ourselves by going for another “training” walk. It takes our mind off the summit night and gives us a feeling for the terrain we will be tackling at midnight.
Barafu Camp, Dori Moreno
Barafu Camp, Dori Moreno
Finally, the day has arrived. We are woken up at midnight. Throughout the night, teams of people have left to start the summit climb. We are the last to leave at 1,30am. Its cold, but we don’t feel anything through the tension and excitement.
Ready for summit, Dori Moreno
With only our headlights to show us the way, we focus on the steps directly in front of us. If we look up, we can see a trail of lights of people high up on the mountain above us. Its best not to look up, to focus only on the next step. At around 3am it gets really cold. Around -10 degrees so its important to keep moving. Then the sun starts to make an appearance, bringing everything to life. We have been walking for 5 hours.
Sunrise, Dori Moreno
It’s important to take regular breaks, to drink and to eat even though we have no appetite. Breathing is very labored and the body is stressed. It becomes a mind game.
Taking a break, Dori Moreno
Towards the summit, Dori Moreno
The last 20m to Stella Point are a massive struggle for me. I take 2 steps and have to stop to breathe. Warren and Sarah wait for me at the top. I see them waving at me, willing me on but my body is made of lead and it won’t listen to my brain. Everything slows down to slow motion. My tongue is thick in my mouth and I can hear that my speech is slurred. David, the assistant guide, suggests I get to the top of Stella Point and give up. I refuse point blank, but when my body won’t respond, I start to consider it as an option. Rajab comes to my assistance and literally hauls me up the last 10m. I reach the top and collapse spreadeagled onto the floor.
Helping hand, Dori Moreno
When I lift my head I see the glaciers in front of me. Rajab points out that the summit is “just over there”. An hour away. I can see the board signs and this motivates me to get up and get going again.
Glaciers, Dori Moreno
Glaciers, Dori Moreno
Sarah and Warren reach the summit before me. They are elated.
The summit, Dori Moreno
I struggle to keep walking. Every step takes forever. In a way I am glad of this because it gives me time to appreciate the glaciers flanking my left hand side all the way to the summit. It gives me time to notice the different colours, their height, their splendour.
Glacier, Dori Moreno
Glacier, Dori Moreno
Glaciers, Dori Moreno
The walk seems to take forever. I watch as Rajab strides ahead of me, guiding me to the signposts.
Almost there, Dori Moreno
Sarah walks towards me and hooks her arm in mine, a welcome help as I take those last steps to the Summit.
Kissing the Summit, Dori Moreno
We made it, Dori Moreno
I spend some time at the summit taking photos but soon after it’s time to start our long way down.
Summit, Dori Moreno
Summit, Dori Moreno
Summit, Dori Moreno
Summit, Dori Moreno
The way down is long and tiring. 3 hours back to Barafu Camp, sinking deep into the dust and shale at a steep gradient.
The way down, Dori Moreno
On arrival at Barafu Camp, we spend an hour relaxing, have something to eat and then continue our descent to Mweka Camp at 3 100m. By the time we get to the camp, we have been on the go for 16 hours. We have climbed 1 296m and descended 2 796m. We are exhausted and get to sleep as soon as we have had something to eat. The next day I wake up and feel like a puffer fish. My face is swollen and I am grateful for the lack of mirrors around but cannot resist taking a self portrait.
Puffed up, Dori Moreno
It was time for farewells from the team and final photos with them. They had looked after us well during our adventure.
The team, Dori Moreno
All that remains for us to do now is walk 3 hours to the gate camp. We walk through the rain forest again and enjoy it tremendously.
The rainforest, Dori Moreno
Rainforest, Dori Moreno
Rainforest, Dori Moreno
Finally we reach Mweka Park Gate. We sign out and Rajab and David make a ceremony of presenting us with our certificates.
Getting certificates, Dori Moreno
Warren has a celebratory cigar as we wait for our transfer to the airport.
Cigar celebration, Dori Moreno
Our transfer arrives and we make our way to the airport. For a long time as we drive along, Kilimanjaro looks down at us from her lofty perch. She is a very beautiful mountain and we won’t forget our time in her company.
Farewell, Dori Moreno
